I follow Jeremy Lee on Twitter and I won’t lie to you sometimes,I don’t have a clue what he’s going on about. An example of one of the less cryptic, if you will
” just as Walter Matthau drove thro New York saying goodbye to all, so is the walking past of all the biscuit tins, empty of crunch and crumb”
But then again that’s fine too, I find this all mildly amusing and I don’t really have the heart to “unfollow”. You sort of know there is poetic genius there somewhere and I’d be the first to concede the levels of my own ignorance.
His food need no such translation the menu is clean clipped simple the food but again the poetry is foremost.
First up the headline act – The eel sandwich – well it really is a thing of beauty ( I must declare and interest here I love Eel so i was easily half way there before I’d even tried this) Interests declared I can now pour my heart out over this one. Its was even after a week firmly the destination dish and always there on a daily changing menu, but it really is very very good. Good sourdough lightly pickled onion and soft delicious eel.
Now ordinarily I wouldn’t choose this but it was playing understudy to the Onglet which had proved too popular that evening. and what a replacement it was – a step up from any ordinary piece of meat cooked perfectly – there are many more famous steak restaurants in London that would struggle to put out a performance of this calibre. Wonderfully pink and moist and the seam of covering fat crisped quite beautifully. Some pickled walnuts on the side and a sprig of watercress set off the whole like the mini masterpiece it was.
A small gripe the Daffs, not from me but I feel duty bound to share – yes it was St Davids Day so chaware teg, but they lent a pungency to the room that many would find a little overpowering which would be a shame because the its the food here that really shines
Go its all quite lovely.